Sunday, September 14, 2008

delicious desert...not dessert

You set your people free, and you led them through the desert. ~Ps. 68:7

Though a month has passed since I took a little up to northern, desert-y Nigeria, it was such a cool trip I couldn’t pass on sharing the experience with y’all. (note: pictures were pretty much all taken by Kav, and you can see more by clicking HERE http://picasaweb.google.com/naekix/NguruTrip

So...I was supposed to be running a camp in Gombe, but due to the ridiculous cycle of teacher strikes, it was cancelled. What better to do with my free week than join my buds Katy and Kav for an adventure up in the desert?! Right. So off we were on the 8 hour drive to northern Nigeria-destination: Nguru in Yobi State where “Ma and Pa W.” (kinda need to substitute names for security) are serving among various desert people groups. Ironically, Nguru is actually called the Wetlands because of this crazy lake/marsh area located miraculously close to the Sahel Desert. Our first day there, we took a guided canoe ride through the wetlands with Hasan Hasan, a friend of Ma and Pa and the equivalent of a park ranger.
The wetlands are extra snazzy because they serve as a pit-stop for THOUSANDS of birds migrating to the Middle East and Serengeti in December. August was more like nesting season, so we weren’t mobbed by flocks, but it was still way fun cruising around, taking pictures and learning all about this unique eco-climate.

One cool thing about the North is that there are a TON of Baobab trees that a person can find all over West Africa, they are EVERYWHERE!! Anyway, if you don’t know what one looks like here is a picture
Most people recognize them from the movie The Lion King—you know, the tree that Rafiki,the monkey lives in. Right. The neat thing about the Baobab tree is that its roots grow like its tree branches should grow. In Senegal, the Wolof people tell an old story of the Baobab tree. The story goes in the garden of Eden the Baobab tree was one of the grandest trees in the garden--full of color and life and beauty. The Baobab tree knew that he was beautiful (had to be a he because females never think they’re beautiful) and got a little too proud and conceited. Seeing as God couldn’t have pompous trees in Eden, God disciplined him and turned him upside down in hopes that he would not be so proud. I guess it worked because now there is only a few short months where the tree has leaves and they look like roots just growing wherever they please. Baobabs get massive as you can see. I personally think they still look really cool...wonder what their roots look like.

Now, just a word about Ma and Paw...they are the only white folks for 4 hours in any direction. They’ve been there in Northern Nigeria for over 15 years and though fruit of their work comes slowly and often unknown, they have amazingly positibe, vibrant attitudes. One of the things they do is to up to the sand dunes near the Niger border to minster to nomadic groups who often bring their camel caravans through the area. So our 2nd day, we jumped in the truck and bumped our way 2 hours north. Using only a GPS (road quickly deteriorates and notable landmarks are non-existent) we made it to the highest dune in the area. Ma and Pa often go here because there are two nearby oasises (is that the right plural form? Oasi? Anyways...) Katy, Kav, and I were like kids in a candy shop on these absolutely gorgeous dunes. The pictures shows the sort of fun we had.

So we didn’t actually get to meet up with any camel caravans (my dreams of riding across the dunes with a turban Arabian Knights style has yet to come to fruition), BUT, we did meet some beautiful fulani people and Pa got a chance to share The Story and give out a device that tells a 80 min story from the very start of Creation to the death of The Man that gave His life for the entire world. The cool thing about this device (they are a pretty penny, about 40$) is that one its solar powered! ha.. and two it has anywhere from 3-7 different
languages! AMAZING!! So whomever Paw gives this device to, they can share the story over and over again and again because it needs no batteries!! PTL for technology yeah???
Alright, so after fun on the dunes and lunch down in the oasis, we started to head back to Nguru. There we were, bumping along through millet fields singing “Bare Necessities” from Jungle Book and BAM! Our truck lodged itself on a stump in hit a deep, soft mud pit. When we opened our doors, water greeted us just 2 inches from the bottom of the door.
One of the miracles of Africa is that even if you think you’re in the middle of nowhere, get stranded and people will show up. We had been there maybe 10 minutes with 2 guys come strolling by, one named Alhaji Muhammed. Immediately they dropped their farm tools. Upon primary survey of the scene, Alhaji told the other, Ka je ka kawo yara daga gari (=Go and get the kids from the village). So to our rescue, about 8 boys come running down the path...and by boys, I mean no older than 12...not very encouraging. But they were enthusiastic so we set to work. About 45 mins later, we hear a big cargo truck chugging towards us, heading to town. Thinking our savior has finally arrived, we flag them down and negotiate a price. The driver goes back to his truck AND DRIVES AWAY! We all stood there in disbelief—never have I ever met a Nigeria
who wasn’t willing to help a bature out. Alhaji Muhammed smacked his lips, shook his head in disgust at his people, and decided this was going to require more people. He told a boy to run back to the village (have I mentioned it’s nearly a kilometer away?) and bring everyone. Meanwhile, storm clouds are rolling in and I’m contemplating the best sleeping arrangements for 5 people in this truck.Sure enough, 30mins later, jogging down the lane is the entire village’s male population, fresh out of the fields. We cheer and clap for them and being dudes, they all jump around, pound chests, make grunting noises, and flex muscles. Alhaji gives a motivational speech and organizes the team and soon everyone is hard at work...caked in mud. After an hour of digging mud, draining water, chopping at the stump under the front, and spinning tires-- freedom! You can bet there was great rejoicing.
note the mud-caked faces. Alhaji Muhammed is the guy on the far right

Upon taking pictures, Alhaji had 2 requests: 1)to take me as his [3rd] wife and 2) for us to return with these pictures someday. We deliberated awhile, and then opted for door number 2. [see newsletter or epilogue for how that turned out]

Once again, we’re on our way, but darkness is closing in, and we only have GPS way-points till we get to the powerlines, which normally isn’t a problem in the day light when one can easily keep them in view till the semi-paved road is reached. Just when we start to get really nervous about our blinded sense of direction, a van heading towards town comes bumping by. Ma commented, “I know it may not look like it, but that van right there is an angel sent to guide us.” Sure enough, we were able to follow the van most of the way until it made a stop and we felt confident. Just when we thought we had mastered the art of detouring around the water holes and numerous pits of death, we found ourselves stuck once more in a mini-pond, disguised as a tall grass. **sigh** Now we’re in complete darkness and if there’s a village around, everyone’s in their homes. 1 minute goes by and what do we hear, but a big truck coming back from town. Would you believe it was the SAME truck that dissed us earlier that day?? True story. We flag down the driver and once he sees who we are says, “Kai, you all have suffered today!” Then, without hesitation, he straps the tow-rope on and yanks us out of the pit. Talk about serving a God of grace and second chances! The truck driver also informed us that the road back to Nguru was “not good” (read- “mean armed robbers are known to target drivers on that road). GREEEAAAT. Once we got to the town, we stopped by the police station and they assured us many patrols were on duty on the road. I’m happy to report that we had NO problems. God seemed to even fill in the myriad of potholes that had jostled us on the way coming. Amazing, no?

The Lord led his people through the desert. God's love never fails. ~Ps. 136:16

Friday, September 5, 2008

525,600 minutes

525,600 moments so dear.
525,600 minutes
how do you measure,
measure a year?
(from musical Rent)
In rainstorms, in sunsets, in head-ties
In bowls of rice
In smiles, in potholes, in laughter, in mosquito bites.

On my 1-year anniversary to arriving in Nigeria, it seemed only too perfect that I was found out in rural Nigeria, rounding up a week of camp. There I was, rejoicing with all the youth who had made life-changing decisions, commitments, and discoveries; heartedly belting out the national anthem as the flag was lowered; leading the group in one final rendition of our camp theme song (which was "Days of Elijah, btw...can you believe it BW/DR friends?!?!); and sweating buckets under the hot African sun as some VIP's said some (read, "way too many") words to the campers...and I couldn't have been happier. It struck me today I saw the realization of the eager anticipation that I felt a year ago when I left Greensboro, NC, USA. I remember being a little sad, a little nervous, but mostly absolutely certain that Jos, Nigeria was where I was supposed to be. Now, 12 months, 52 weeks, 366 days,8,784 hours, and yes, 525,600 minutes later... what's the scoop?

There are still so many things about Nigeria that hit me the same today as they did a year ago:
I still think Nigerian women have the absolute greatest laugh in the world. I still marvel and the variety and quantity of livestock carried on motorbikes. My heart both smiles and aches as I see half-naked (sometimes fully naked) toddlers playing outside with no parents in view. I still marvel at the unadulterated green beauty of the landscape. I still wonder what the men sitting idle on the side of the road think about all day. When I see women bent over, working away, I wonder if they're ever self-conscious about having their butts in the air. I'm still grateful for the mild weather of Jos, still savoring the rainstorms, still frustrated with inconsiderate drivers, and still exhausted from a day in the market. I still shake my head in disbelief at the lack of planning, ridiculous dressing (not cultural stuff, but a dude wearing stylish sunglasses with a kid's winter hat complete with ears), and selfless, unending hospitality. Basically, I'm still enamored with this place.

But then again, I can also see how I've been inculcated to Nigeria:
Women with babies on their back and full baskets/basins/plates on their heads doesn't cause my mouth to drop open quite as wide in amazement. I no longer hear the constant cacophony of car horns. I fully expect to be cut off if I'm in the least bit genourous with the space between me and the car in front of me. If traveling I know to pack food because there are no fast-food joints to stop at and what food you might find...you probably don't want to find. And to stop for a "bathroom break" while driving, it means I'm not looking for a gas station, but rather a bush or large ditch. I expect just a few hours of electricity a day and could locate matches and a candle in my sleep. I've learned to keep a "wrapper" handy in case I'm in pants or shorts in the house and a Nigerian stops by to visit. My Nigerian sisters have taught me how to limit my friendliness toward men in the market and I no longer get nervous at the prospect of haggling a little for a better price. Though I've rarely done this all the other places I live, I now routinely lock doors when I'm home, even in the daytime. I don't bat at eye when numerous men in uniforms toting big guns are on the streets around my house. On the other hand, knowing the propensity of corruption, my stomach knots up anytime my vehicle is stopped by "Road Safety" patrol. I have developed a profound appreciation for the missionary family here in Jos, having felt the support it provides when I needed it most. I now instinctively give a little curtsy when I greet someone and bend extra low when that someone is an elder. I've come to take great joy in reading the news, hearing the voices of those I love via Skype or the phone, and drinking tea in the mornings. After a year, I've discovered that deep, rich friendships be built and true worship can be given despite cultural differences. And though I could go on, the main thing I've learned in a year...is that I still have SO much to learn.

So I apologize if the list-y format of this blog wasn't captivating. This blog might very well have served me way more than inform/entertain/update you. If you've made it this far, you deserve something...like a promise that the next post will be about adventures in the desert. "Inshallah" ("God willing").

How do YOU measure a year?