Brrr....

Along with the normal string of greetings, "Ya ya sunyi?" has been added for the past couple months. Believe it or not, "How it the cold?" is a perfectly appropriate question for Jos, Nigeria right now. For an entire week, I felt like I was back in Vermont, donning leggings under my skirt, wool socks (worn with crocs, my only pair of semi-appropriate closed dress shoes), and scarves. I'm not ENTIRELY sure what the thermometer reading actually was, but my guess would be about 45 or 50 in the mornings. For houses that have sealed windows and insulation, this is no big deal, but insulation doesn't really exist here in the land of brick and concrete. Plus, the louver windows, which delighted me when I first arrived, have proven to be my arch nemesis in keeping the chilly wind out of my apartment. Try as I might to close them, the curtain hanging in front still go horizontal from the breeze throughout the night. SO, what does this former Appalachian Trail thru-hiker/ seasoned Vermont resident do to sleep? I dig out the long wool socks that come up to my knees, throw on my warmest set of sweats (oh wait, I only brought one), yank a hat on, slide into my faithful sleeping bag, and pull my thinned comforter up to my chin. I kid you not; this is how I slept for an entire week!

See the picture below a friend of mine took one Sunday afternoon. (My expression is extra grumpy because I had the onset symptoms of malaria, feeling like I've just been run over repeatedly by a mack truck.) All this is due to the dust blown south from the Sahara which blocks the sun and brings increased wind. Now, I'm not really complaining, just trying to paint you a picture. There may not be -20 wind chill, but let me remind you, THIS IS NIGERIA AFRICA! Would you expect to see people come to work with gloves, hats, scarves, and blankets on? Though my sleep may be slightly less sound, and stepping out of the shower a bit less pleasant (I actually abstained a couple days b/c I didn't want to endure the torture of the wind tunnel in my bathroom), for many Nigerians here on the plateau, it can actually be quite dangerous. Many live in much less insulated homes than me and have to travel around on the public motorbikes. Another effect of the "sunyi" is an increase risk of malaria. "Wait, aren't mosquitoes supposed to die in the cold?" That's what I thought! They do, but many migrate to warmer areas aka, your living quarters. Additionally, as any good mother will tell you, the cold makes you more susceptible to sickness because you're immune system is lowered. (As a kid, I'd always get the lecture about not wearing sandals when it's cold or going outside with my hair wet.) As a recovered victim of malaria, I can testify to this theory. Perhaps this is enough of a culture lesson today. After stepping outside this morning and dashing back in to grab a scarf, I knew I had to share the phenomenon with you. I am enjoying not sweating in my seat and getting a chance to wear the few long-sleeve shirts I brought but I'm also looking forward to answering the questions "Ya ya sunyi?" with "Sunyi ya gama!" (=The cold is finished!)