Friday, March 21, 2008

Pestilence and midday strikes

"Do not dread the pestilence that stalks in the darkness, nor the disaster that strikes at midday." (Psalm 91:6)
You know, sometimes scriptures come to mind in situations and you feel all warm and fuzzy inside. This past weekend I was a little too warm, and saw a little too much fuzzy. Here's the story:
Our ECWA Camp Youth Alive(ECYA, love the acronyms) office was asked to come speak/present at the ECWA National Youth Conference in Billiri, Gombe State, about 4 hours from Jos. We made arrangements to stay with Sam, a camp staff nearby and made the trek Friday afternoon. Once we left the plateau, the temperature jumped at least 15 degrees, and by the time we reached Gombe, my clothes were fairly saturated with sweat. Traveling, especially driving, tuckers you out so by 9pm I excused myself to my room. I was really grateful that Sam's cousin, Comfort, gave up her bed and room for me because I was altogether prepared to sleep on the floor. Instead, I plopped down on the bed to write a little letter to my dear Andrew, read, and hopefully, fall asleep. 2 out of the 3 happend. About 15 mins into writing, I hear some noises behind the headboard of the bed. There's always noises in Nigeria, so I didn't think too much of it. 5 mins later, I catch some movement out of the corner of my eye. I direct my headlamp in its direction and spotlight a little vermin! I don't shriek out loud, just write my surprise on the paper. Rationally, I tell myself , "René, 1)it's probably just a mouse searching for food 2)you've slept plenty of nights in the company of mice when you hiked the AT 3) it's not going to bother you 4) don't freak out." Thus, I go back to writing. Maybe 10 mins later, what was a few, faint, little scratching noises has become major construction work under the headboard and I've detected numerous critters running along the wall. I consider calling someone in, but really, what are they going to do? Around 10, Comfort comes in to get something and I say, "Hey Comfort, do you know there are mice in here?" She didn't understand me so I made little gestures and noises and said, "Bera?" (= rat). Then she got it and just laughed and went back out of the room. I'm thinking, "You're name's "Comfort"...couldn't you have given me a little more than a laugh?!?" Well, I resolve to just put some headphones in and read till I fall asleep. This plan seemed to be working until some wretched cacophony broke out and I shot up in bed with a little yelp. It sounded like cats fighting to the death...all under my headboard. All I have to say is, good thing I already went to the bathroom or else I would have had another issue to deal with. From that point on, my nerves were shot and peace had evaporated. The copious rodents were now in full force, scurrying from the bed, over plastic bags, in and out of boxes, to this desk drawer, then back to headquarters in the headboard. They also enjoyed climbing up these wooden blinds at the window at the foot of the bed. Basically, I was surrounded. Talk about "pestilence that stalks in the darkness"! When a respite from the activity occurred, I then became aware of the mosquitoes tagging me. No net and no sheet and my body was already slick with sweat. (I had brought pj pants to sleep in, but they were covered in the soap that spilled in my bag.) I grab the skirt I had worn that day and attempt to position it over my legs so no juicy bits of flesh are hanging out begging a mosquito to dine. I attempted to continue to read to take my mind off it, but my headlamp battery was draining. So now you have the picture in your head: laying in a hot room, perpetually perspiring, swatting blindly at the buzzing near my ears, jumping at each raucous that seems all to close to me, and just praying for the hours to pass quickly. I finished off a bottle of water and used the container as a weapon poised to defend myself should any perpetrators attempt to invade the bed. I'm 93% sure they never did, but at one point I thought I felt something graze my feet...or course, I was pretty delusional by that point. Around 4am, I decided this would have to be a blog and knowing that this post would be 10x better with a picture, Operation Rat Picture began. A little difficult since it was dark and these guys were fast. Alas, I won.
Note the size of this dude using my shoes as a frame of reference. They weren't cute little field mice. Seriously, the legion made noise the ENTIRE night, right up until 6:30am when everyone in the house was up and moving about. At 5am, the Muslim's call to worship from the mosque began and I'm pretty sure one of the speakers was right outside the window. Of course, since I was still wide awake, I wasn't nearly as perturbed as my colleague. When I was greeted with the standard, "Ina kwana?" (=how did you spend the night) I said, "I know I'm supposed to say, 'lafiya' (=fine), but that would be lying."
Fortunately, the Lord granted me the strength to stay awake throughout Saturday. Once again, when I arrived I was ushered to special cushy seats in front. This conference was HUGE. With Nigeria being the most country in Africa (over 140 million) I should have expected a national youth conference to be highly attended. There were over 100,000 people there. That's a LOT of people...and a new record for me-only white person in the crowd. In addition to a special seat and lots of stares, random people also came up and took pictures and video footage of me sitting there, squinting in the sun. I don't even want to know what it's used for. ("Hey Joe! Look at this picture of my new wife! She's going to get me to America.") After a few hours of sha rana ("drinking the sun") ECYA was finally given a chance to speak. A whopping 5 mins. Thing is, because of my white skin, I could have gotten up there and only said, "ECWA CAMP YOUTH ALIVE" and it would have been as effective as talking for an hour.
In fact, I'm learning to switch to Nigerian English so audiences can understand me. Give me a call sometime and I'll give you a taste of it:) By the time we left, I was a wee bit sun-burned and terribly dehydrated. Or you could say, I had been struck by the "midday disaster." Have I completely butchered that Scripture? Actually, it seems altogether possible to me that the psalmist dealt with rodents at night and blistering sun during the day. And though I seemingly just wrote a tome of complaint, I can say with utter gratitude that the Lord protected us, both at night and on the roads, and strengthened us to effectively share about ECYA to youth who'd otherwise not hear. Who knows, perhaps one day we'll hold a camp in a remote part of Nigeria and lives will be changed because someone heard this baturiya talk for 5 mins in Billiri.
Allah ya kai mu = "May God take us"

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Get me to the church on time!

I can count on one hand the number of people I know who'll know which musical has the song from which I took this blogs title...but that's ok, there's hope for the rest of you:) It's high time you saw some picture and heard a little bit about Nigerians weddings. Since I was just intricately involved in my colleague's special day, I'd be delighted to share.

Ah, Shammah(groom) and Ketuah(bride) looking just adorable. Everyone loves a good story love story, right? This lovely couple met at seminary, and though Ketuah had received advice not to bother getting involved until after she was done with her studies, she couldn't resist Shammah's charming smile and eloquent recitation of Bible verses:)

Now, Shammah's work was far from over. In this culture, the dude does 95% of the preparation for a wedding. You have the whole dowry thing to work out and that alone requires several visits to the potential inlaws, bringing along various members of your family each time. You also have to buy this assortment of "house-warming" gifts for your bride including things like toiletries, luggage, shoes, and material for outfits to be made out of. Then you have to plan the whole wedding from the music, colors and cake, down to transportation for the inlaws if they live in a different area. In the States, you're likely to find a bride-to-be sitting with friends doing "wedding talk" for months. I thought I would escape this in coming to Nigeria but nope! The first real talk I had with Shammah was about his wedding and for the past 6 months I've been privy to him and Akim (my other colleague) having "wedding talk" in the office.

Every photographer at a wedding has to get a shot of the cake...so here ya go. Pretty good, I'll say. In many ways, Nigerian weddings have all the same elements of weddings we're all used to. Ridiculously insane mornings, beautiful brides, processional, prayer, vows, rings, sermonette, recessional, picture time that takes way too long, delaying the beginning of the reception, tons of guests you don't know, music and dancing. Oh, but there are distinct differences that kept me chuckling throughout the day.
OK, for starters...this picture was taken about an hour into the ceremony. I didn't take one at the beginning of the ceremony b/c the place was nearly empty. MOST of the time, weddings start over 2 hours late in order to wait for the church to fill up. Shammah, however, committed to starting on time no matter what. Consequently, Ketuah was not walked down the aisle by her own father because her own family hadn't arrived yet! "Who gives this woman to be married to this man?" "Good morning. My name is Ishaku Yakob and on behalf of the family, I know that Ketuah's dad would want her to be given to this man." No joke, that's basically what he said! The family all rolled in about 15 minutes later. I was pretty sure the pastor read his opening Bible passage EXTRA slowly. Plus, you can't tell from the indoor picture, but this church was still under construction. No one in the US would get married at a church with scaffolding all on the outside. Of course, you probably wouldn't start without the bride's parents either.
Another fun feature is that groups of people will often buy the same material and get matching outfits made for the wedding. My department opted to do this so we looked WAY cool at the wedding. Along the lines of attire, weddings also offer a great chance to wear an extra big head-tie. The bigger the better. And even though it was pretty darn warm and humid (check the sweat glow on my face), we still had plenty of dancing at the reception. Not a big dance floor where only the young or intoxicated come out, but the emcee would call the bride and groom and other random sets of people forward to dance, at which time people would boogie up to the front and throw money at them to pay tribute. "Spraying" as I've said before. I wasn't ALWAYS sure when I could go up, but b/c I was the only white girl, they encouraged me each time. The band would thrown down a beat and I had to move my feet, know what I mean? I didn't get a good video of me dancing this time, but here's a little pic.


Speaking of taking pictures...one slightly annoying but perhaps useful practice of Nigerians is not to smile for pictures. Your average american bride/groom will have sore cheeks from smiling so much...but not here. I had to poke and chide Shammah to show his aware-winning smile in some pictures. Here's a classic with the two sets of parents. Notice how NO ONE looks happy. Depressing if you ask me.

What WASN'T ironically depressing was the rain at the end of the day. If you recall, it's been dry season here...meaning it hasn't rained for 5 months!! Not a drop. Thus, when some dark clouds started to roll in, the wedding party wasn't bummed out, they were elated! Ok, so maybe the people who had to hop motorbikes to get home were a bit disgruntled, but I was thrilled! Kind of like the first snow fall of a season...here I am catching rain drops in my mouth.

Even though I ended up loading/unloading the rental furniture and then the band's music equipment in the rain (only person with a truck... I should have seen it coming), hearing the beating of rain on the hood, smelling the wet pavement, and seeing the dust washed away TOTALLY made my day. Even when I returned home to no power, I took completely joy in opening all the windows and doors, laying on the couch and savoring the storm. Rain on the wedding day? Just fine for me:)

Hausa word of the day: wedding celebration = bikin aure